This old stock route, spanning 1,750 km from Wiluna to Halls Creek in Western Australia, is the harshest, lengthiest, most difficult (and probably most expensive) 4WD journey in Australia.

In the early 1900s pastoralists in the Kimberley region had become desperate for an overland route by which to move their livestock down south to the monied meat-eaters in the goldfields. An outbreak of cattle tick had banned all ship transport around the coast--the southern graziers were taking no chances that it would spread to their land. Another discovery was that the nasty little ticks would simply and conveniently die during a trip through the sizzling desert.

In 1906, after the Kimberley boys pressured the government and put up some of the bucks, Alfred Canning, surveyor extraordinaire, was hired to make a preliminary exploration. His report was favorable--he could sink 54 wells approximately 20 km apart. Canning and his construction party went to work, completing the route between March 1908 and April 1910. The first stock trod by in 1911. In 1958 the route was abandoned with the introduction of road trains. As of 1995, the four-wheelers are still trying to keep on track.

In 1929, a team led by William Albert Snell refurbished the wells up to No. 35 and Alfred Canning (retired by then) finished the job. Fear of a Japanese invasion of Australia's north spurred another refurbishment in 1942--just in case citizens and livestock had to flee the area.

In their prime, the wells each possessed a hand-operated windlass, two buckets, a whip-pole for water-hauling, and a galvanized steel trough for cattle-watering. Unfortunately, since 1958 the wells have been desecrated by termites, rust, and fires; some retain only a bit of wood, ironwork, and the odd bucket.

Warning: This is an extremely arduous journey, requiring major preparations, a top-notch 4WD vehicle, permits from pastoralists, two-way radio transceivors, a lot of fuel, and other provisions. There is no help along the way. Travelers--increasingly--die on this journey. It should only be undertaken late April until early October, with June through August being the best months.